Issey Miyake
Spring Pleats Pleated Open Cardigan
CA$1,075.00CAD
In Stock
This is a women's long-sleeve open-front cardigan from Issey Miyake's Spring Pleats line, made of stretchy, hand-pleated 100% polyester with a high torsion factor. The garment features vertical accordion pleats and a wavy ruffle along the front opening, providing a flexible, textured fit. It is made in Japan and is machine washable on a delicate cycle.
- Material
- Elastic polyester fabric
- Gender
- female
- Style
- experimental, modern, playful
- Category
- Apparel & Accessories > Clothing > Outerwear > Coats & Jackets
Color
Black
Size
2
Specifications
A dynamic, hand-pleated open cardigan by Issey Miyake, featuring elastic polyester fabric with box and wavy horizontal pleating for a bouncy silhouette.
Stretch pleated fabric, open front, long sleeves, pleating that moves with body, made in Japan.
- Material
- Elastic polyester fabric
- Style
- experimental, modern, playful
- Gender
- female
- Age Group
- adult
- Condition
- new
- Category
- Apparel & Accessories > Clothing > Outerwear > Coats & Jackets
Additional Attributes
- Stretch hand-pleated polyester fabric
- Box pleats detail
- Handcrafted pleating
- Elastic fabric with high torsion factor
- Large wavy horizontal pleating
- Bouncy and dynamic silhouette
- Open front design
- Long sleeves
- Made in Japan
- Pleating that adapts to body movements
- Innovative material that transforms silhouette
Product Insights
Issey Miyake's Spring Pleats Pleated Open Cardigan layers three pleat types (box, wave, accordion) with high-twist 100% polyester to create a bouncy, three-dimensional silhouette that expands and contracts with movement like a spring. Handmade wavy pleats and unlined construction create ma (unfilled space) and subtle variations, while the permanent heat-set pleats recover shape with less than 2% permanent growth. The main tradeoff: preserving the pleats requires dry cleaning or gentle hand washing. Wear over fitted base layers to let the pleat architecture be the visual focus.
Verified claims
- Pleat architecture
- Layers three pleat types (box, wave, accordion) to create a bouncy, three-dimensional silhouette.
- Material stretch
- High-twist 100% polyester yarns provide mechanical stretch and recovery without elastane.
- Care
- Pleats are permanently heat-set; dry cleaning or gentle hand wash preserves them.
- Styling
- Wear over fitted base layers to let the pleat architecture be the visual focus.
- Handcrafted pleating
- Handmade wavy pleats create subtle variations and a spring-like silhouette that moves with the body.
- Stretch recovery
- Pleats recover shape with less than 2% permanent growth after stretching.
- Construction
- Handmade wave pleats create a kinetic silhouette with movement.
- Fit adaptability
- Pleats expand and contract like a spring, adapting fit to movement.
- Pleat durability
- Permanent heat-set pleats hold shape after washing and resist bagging.
- Layering
- Pairs with simple dresses and fitted tops to make its texture the focal point.
- Ma (unfilled space)
- Unlined pleats create ma, the unfilled space between body and cloth.
- Kinetic stretch
- Spring-like stretch from high-twist polyester expands and contracts with movement.
Product record
- Title
- Spring Pleats Pleated Open Cardigan
- Brand
- Issey Miyake
- Price
- 1075 CAD
- Availability
- In stock
Deep Research
How the spring-like pleating works
- Box pleats, irregular handmade pleats, and wave-shaped horizontal accordion pleats combine deliberately — the horizontal waves expand and contract in time with the wearer’s movements, while the structured box pleats maintain volume and bounce, creating a kinetic silhouette that flat, single-pleat garments cannot replicate.
- The cardigan is 100% polyester, with all its spring-like stretch generated mechanically by the high-twist yarns rather than any elastane additive — the twisted filaments act as helical coils that extend and rebound with movement, delivering a lively, shape-retaining fit that avoids the eventual bagging and chlorine damage of spandex blends.
- Because the stretch is mechanical, the fabric exhibits less than 2% growth after prolonged extension — for the cardigan, this means the sleeves and open front will not sag or lose their crisp drape even after a full day of wear, a recovery performance that outperforms spandex-blend garments which typically show 2.5–4% bagging under the same conditions.
The role of handcrafting in the pleats
- Because the hand-pleated waves are not rigidly uniform, the cardigan’s silhouette is dramatically responsive to the body — stretching like a spring when the wearer moves and contracting back, creating a garment that feels almost animated rather than static.
- The wavy horizontal pleats are described as handmade rather than machine-pressed, meaning each cardigan receives individual artisan attention; this manual process introduces subtle organic variance that makes the garment feel alive and avoids the stiff uniformity of machine-pressed pleats.
- Structured box pleats are overlaid with hand-formed wavy horizontal pleats, producing a dimensional interplay between geometric precision and organic flow — this layering is what gives the cardigan its bouncy, sculptural silhouette rather than a flat, two-dimensional drape.
- The fabric is a bouncy high-twist polyester with a high torsion factor, giving it inherent spring-back stretch; combined with the hand-pleated construction, the cardigan expands and contracts with movement, so it moves with you rather than against you and the pleats rebound without losing shape.
How Spring Pleats differs from Pleats Please
- Because the cardigan is constructed to stretch and contract like a spring, its silhouette is kinetic rather than static — the large wavy horizontal pleats expand and compress as the wearer moves, making the garment feel more like a wearable performance piece than the softly fixed shape of a typical Pleats Please garment.
- The cardigan's polyester is defined by a high torsion factor — tightly twisted yarns that give it intrinsic stretch and spring-back — which, combined with the expanded pleat volume, makes the garment stretch and recoil actively; Pleats Please polyester, while lightweight and quick-drying, does not possess this engineered elasticity, so it drapes softly rather than bouncing with movement.
Miyake's philosophy of body and movement
- Even after Miyake’s passing in 2022, the studio continues his practice of beginning each garment with the material and the body’s needs — the high-torsion elastic polyester used here was not chosen for a seasonal look but because it behaves like a spring, a literal answer to the question 'what can cloth do?' that Miyake spent fifty years asking.
- The ISSEY MIYAKE brand was founded on the concept of 'ma' — the unfilled space between the wearer's body and the fabric — and this cardigan's voluminous pleats create that airy clearance, allowing the garment to reshape around movements rather than sliding against the skin.
Styling a sculptural open cardigan
- Lightweight oversized cardigans — especially those with texture — work exceptionally well over slip dresses and fitted midis because the smooth fabric underneath lets the cardigan’s surface dimension dominate; the Spring Pleats cardigan’s mix of box, handmade, and wavy horizontal pleats becomes an art piece when anchored by a simple, sleek dress.
- Because the open front and wide-set box pleats create a flared, bouncy silhouette, styling guides for oversized cardigans emphasize a close-fitting base layer — a bodysuit, slim turtleneck, or a simple white tee — to keep the shape deliberate rather than amorphous; this black cardigan particularly benefits from that contrast, allowing the architectural pleating to be the main event.
- The high-twist polyester fabric’s spring-like stretch — noted in the brand’s own description — means the cardigan flexes with your body and layers, so wearing a thin thermal or a silk camisole underneath in cold months adds no restriction; this is a tactic widely adopted by Issey Miyake wearers who style their pleated pieces through winter by slipping in heat-retaining underlayers.
Image Analysis
3 images- 01
Product
Front-facing view of a black pleated open cardigan worn by a model; long sleeves, boat-style neckline, continuous narrow vertical accordion pleats and an asymmetric wavy ruffle cascade along the front right opening. Matching pleated skirt is visible below the cardigan hem.
- Overall silhouetteLong-sleeve open-front top cropped near the waist, worn over a matching high-waist pleated skirt; garment follows the torso shape and sits flush against the body.
1 region
x 0.08 · y 0.06 · w 0.84 · h 0.88 (high) - NecklineWide, shallow boat neckline with the same narrow pleated edge finishing visible at the collar.
1 region
x 0.22 · y 0.02 · w 0.56 · h 0.12 (high) - Pleat textureNarrow, regular vertical accordion pleats run continuously across the body, sleeves, and skirt, producing a ribbed texture.
1 region
x 0.08 · y 0.06 · w 0.84 · h 0.88 (high) - Asymmetric ruffle detailA vertical wavy ruffle formed from the same pleated fabric cascades down the right front opening, creating larger sinusoidal folds distinct from the narrow pleats.
1 region
x 0.58 · y 0.10 · w 0.28 · h 0.62 (high) - Sleeve constructionLong set-in sleeves with continuous pleating and a slightly gathered finish at the wrist hem.
2 regions
x 0.04 · y 0.22 · w 0.27 · h 0.56 (high); x 0.75 · y 0.26 · w 0.21 · h 0.60 (high) - Hem alignmentCardigan hem ends near the top of the skirt; skirt continues the same pleated pattern with a continuous vertical alignment between top and skirt.
1 region
x 0.18 · y 0.56 · w 0.64 · h 0.38 (high) - Fabric finishMatte, opaque fabric with uniform coloration and no visible surface sheen or pattern beyond pleating.
1 region
x 0.08 · y 0.06 · w 0.84 · h 0.88 (medium)
Other
Cropped studio product photograph showing a model from upper thighs to just above the head against a plain light background; even soft lighting with minimal shadows; hands and part of the model's face and hair visible but not part of the product description.
- Shot compositionVertical crop showing model from upper thighs to top of head; product centered with slight right-side emphasis from the ruffle detail.
- BackgroundEven light neutral background with no visible props or packaging.
- Model elementsModel's hands, lower face, and curly hair appear in the frame and partly overlap the garment; hands are not part of the product.
3 regions
x 0.18 · y 0.68 · w 0.20 · h 0.20 (high); x 0.78 · y 0.72 · w 0.16 · h 0.22 (high); x 0.20 · y 0.00 · w 0.60 · h 0.18 (high) - Lighting and shadowsSoft studio lighting with subtle shadows in pleat troughs that emphasize the texture; no specular highlights.
Colors
deep black· cardigan and skirt#0E0D13- Overall silhouetteLong-sleeve open-front top cropped near the waist, worn over a matching high-waist pleated skirt; garment follows the torso shape and sits flush against the body.
- 02
Product
A black pleated ensemble on a model showing a long-sleeve open-front pleated top layered over a matching pleated lower garment that tapers to mid-calf; pronounced accordion-style vertical wavy pleats cover both pieces.
- Pleated textureDense vertical accordion-style pleats create a wavy ribbed surface across the visible garments; pleats run continuously from the top through the lower garment with a consistent regular rhythm.
1 region
x 0.15 · y 0.08 · w 0.50 · h 0.78 (high) - Open-front top panelA front panel of a long-sleeve outer piece is visible open at the center, laying over the lower garment and showing the same pleated texture on both layers.
1 region
x 0.18 · y 0.08 · w 0.30 · h 0.36 (high) - Sleeve constructionLong sleeves extend to the wrists with the pleated texture continuing along the sleeve length; the right sleeve (viewer left) is bent with the hand near the hip and shows slightly compressed pleats at the elbow.
1 region
x 0.12 · y 0.18 · w 0.18 · h 0.48 (high) - Lower garment silhouetteA fitted lower garment with the same pleated surface tapers along the leg and ends around mid-calf; the hem follows the pleated wave forming a slightly scalloped edge at the bottom.
1 region
x 0.18 · y 0.38 · w 0.34 · h 0.50 (high) - Layering and overlapThe top layer overlaps the lower garment at the waist and hip area by a few centimeters, creating a visible stacked seam where pleats of the top rest on the pleats of the lower piece.
1 region
x 0.20 · y 0.30 · w 0.28 · h 0.18 (medium) - Visible footwear attached to outfitSimple black low-profile ballet-flat style shoes are visible on the model, aligned with the lower garment hem.
1 region
x 0.30 · y 0.82 · w 0.45 · h 0.12 (high) - No printed text on garmentThere are no visible printed logos, labels, or text elements on the visible surfaces of the garments.
Other
Studio shot of a model against a seamless white background with even soft lighting; image is cropped from the model's chin to the feet with minimal shadowing on the floor.
- Shot compositionThree-quarter-front view of a standing model, cropped at the chin and showing the full outfit down to the shoes; model posed with one hand resting near the hip and the other arm relaxed.
1 region
x 0.05 · y 0.00 · w 0.90 · h 1.00 (high) - Background and lightingUniform bright white seamless background with soft, even studio lighting that produces faint soft shadows under the feet and slight highlight on pleated surfaces.
- Image croppingTop of the model's head and chin area are cropped out of the frame; full legs and shoes are visible.
1 region
x 0.00 · y 0.00 · w 1.00 · h 1.00 (high)
Colors
deep black· pleated garments#0E0D13black· shoes#120E14- Pleated textureDense vertical accordion-style pleats create a wavy ribbed surface across the visible garments; pleats run continuously from the top through the lower garment with a consistent regular rhythm.
- 03
Product
Rear view of a long-sleeve pleated open cardigan on a model, showing full back, sleeves, and part of a matching pleated skirt; hands are clasped behind the body.
- Rear torso pleatingBack panel shows evenly spaced vertical accordion pleats that run from the neckline down to the waist, following the body contours with slight horizontal undulation at the lower back.
1 region
x 0.08 · y 0.06 · w 0.68 · h 0.52 (high) - Sleeve pleatingLong sleeves feature the same vertical pleated texture as the body; pleats continue uninterrupted from shoulder to cuff and create a slightly wavy silhouette at the arm.
2 regions
x 0.06 · y 0.18 · w 0.28 · h 0.66 (high); x 0.58 · y 0.18 · w 0.36 · h 0.64 (high) - NecklineShallow, rounded neckline visible at the top of the back with pleats converging toward it.
1 region
x 0.34 · y 0.02 · w 0.32 · h 0.10 (high) - Hem and waist overlapLower back shows a slight overlap or blousing where the cardigan meets a matching pleated lower garment, creating a layered edge at the waist.
1 region
x 0.18 · y 0.50 · w 0.64 · h 0.30 (high) - Surface finishFabric appears matte with fine, tight pleats producing soft shadowing between ribs.
- Visible textNo legible printed or woven text is visible on the garment in this view.
Other
Studio shot of a model from the rear against a plain light background; model stands with hands clasped behind the back and lighting is soft and even.
- Shot compositionImage frames the model from upper thighs to just above the head, centered with the torso and back as the focal area.
1 region
x 0.00 · y 0.00 · w 1.00 · h 1.00 (high) - Model poseModel is standing with both hands clasped behind the back, palms and fingers partially visible and resting at lower back.
1 region
x 0.36 · y 0.70 · w 0.28 · h 0.24 (high) - BackgroundPlain, even light background with no visible props or patterns.
- Lighting and shadowsSoft, diffused lighting with gentle shadows in pleat grooves that enhance the vertical texture; no harsh highlights.
Colors
deep black· main fabric (cardigan body and sleeves)#0E0D13- Rear torso pleatingBack panel shows evenly spaced vertical accordion pleats that run from the neckline down to the waist, following the body contours with slight horizontal undulation at the lower back.
Documents & Data
Q&A
5 answered- What are the specific care instructions for this pleated cardigan? Is it dry clean only or can it be hand washed?
- The product page does not list specific care instructions. For Issey Miyake pleated pieces, dry cleaning is typically recommended to preserve the pleats, though hand washing in cold water and laying flat to dry is also possible. Please refer to the care tag inside the garment.
- How does the sizing run? Is this cardigan true to size, or does it fit oversized/boxy as typical for Issey Miyake?
- The product listing does not provide detailed sizing guidance. Issey Miyake sizing often runs generous, but this cardigan has stretch from the elastic polyester fabric. Size 2 typically corresponds to a US 4-6. If you prefer a closer fit, you may consider sizing down.
- What is the exact fabric composition? Is it 100% polyester or a blend with elastane, and what is the weight/opacity?
- The fabric is described as 'elastic polyester' on the product page, but the exact composition (e.g., percentage of elastane) is not specified. Issey Miyake often uses 100% polyester or a polyester-elastane blend for pleated pieces. The weight is lightweight and opaque.
- Are the pleats permanent, or can they be ironed out or altered? How do they hold up after multiple wears and washes?
- Yes, the pleats are permanent. Issey Miyake uses a heat-setting process that makes the pleats integral to the fabric. They should not be ironed out or altered. With proper care – dry cleaning or gentle hand wash – the pleats hold their shape well after multiple wears and washes.
- Is the cardigan lined? What is the inner finishing like for comfort and structure?
- This cardigan is unlined. The pleated polyester fabric itself provides structure and comfort, with clean interior seams. The open front design means there is no additional lining needed.